Wine and the Emerging Middle Class in China
Maureen Fan of the Washington Post Foreign Service wrote a feature Sunday on the growing popularity of wine in China, a story that doubled as a portrait of the emerging middle and middle-upper classes in China. Although wine selection is limited and bottles are pricey, wine drinking is surging — imports gained by 91 percent in the first nine months of 2006.
Fan finds a fine phrase to describe the wine phenomenon in China: These days, she writes, “the cost is part of the charm.”
Apparently, China imports its bulk wine in 6,000 gallon bags from Australia, Chile and elsewhere to China, where it is combined with “local ingredients and sold as Chinese bottled wine, often with names such as Dynasty or Great Wall.”
Everyone quoted in the story seems to agree that wine-drinking in China is a reflection of changing social and economic pattern; food and drink as aesthetic evidence for sociological change. What do you think?
January 31, 2007 at 11:07 am
I’m keeping my fingers crossed that quality will come with demand. Assuming that’s the case, I wonder how local brands will compete with the foreign stuff and how much it will matter, eventually, if the label says “Made in China” or “Imported from Australia/Chile/France/California.”
Just found your blog, by the way. Looks sharp.
February 1, 2007 at 4:03 am
Are you based in China? I’m curious because I’ve been told that ChinaRedux is not avaialable there.
I thought the discussion of imported wine being repackaged in China with “local flavors” was somewhat amusing but also intriguing. Could be really delicious, or bizarre. I haven’t actually tried any Chinese wine.
I’m certain that the origins will be a factor with wine in China. Provenance is frequently a distinguishing factor in in luxury consumer items such as wine, cheese, clothes, etc. China likely wont’ be any different.